Have you ever looked at a potential piece, considered the build and then simply disregarded the project due to an inability to make one certain aspect?
Before I became aware of hollows and rounds I did this quite often. Moulding profiles dictated my choices. The range of options is limitless.
Consider this bedstead...
(It will really tie your bedroom together like no rug can.)
I imagine that this piece is not currently on the 'to do' list for many of us. But can you make it? We could all figure out the turnings, joints, panels, etc. But the mouldings...
(Warne, E. J. Furniture Mouldings. Other bibliographical information...)
It would be sad to let only the mouldings preclude you from making this. It would also be a shame to purchase the specific shaper knives and router bits only to never use them again. (Not to mention the sanding)
With hollows and rounds you can make all of these profiles and, with the same series of tools, create the next.
Let me quickly walk you through the process of making the crown. If you have neither followed my blog before (start from the beginning) nor read my book then the following will appear convoluted. Read the blog posts from the past or stick with me in the future. It will ultimately make sense.
The first step in making this exact crown (above, center) is to transfer the shape from paper onto wood. I do this accurately by first "finding the flats." Define each vertical and horizontal surface by measuring from known edges.
(Once I have the thickness and width, I can use my dividers. Do you see the tool marks on the edges?)
Then, using a circle template, I choose the correct radius and connect the flats.
This first cove was made with a 4/16" and 6/16" concave radius that equates to a #4 and #6 round, respectively. This elliptical shape is more complex than the following and we will touch upon it further at a later date. (There is another post about elliptical/ovular shapes buried in this blog somewhere, but I can't find it now.)
This next convex shape was made with a #6 hollow and is a 6/16" radius. It is 90 degrees of a circle. It's a straight forward operation but not the easiest, just close. On a scale from 1-10 it's a 2. We will (and have) cover(ed) this, too.
Step 3 in laying out the curves? The ogee.
Okay, we have the final shape but hollows and rounds have no fence and no depth stop. The lack of these two features is an absolute advantage of the tool and what grants them their flexibility. We just need a series of rabbets and chamfers to guide these planes that are difficult to steer..
Why are we drawing the moulding profile in this fashion on the upper left corner of a piece of wood? Easy!
Drawing the profile in this manner allows for a simple transfer of gauge lines.
The rabbets pretty much define the final profile. Making rabbets accurately should be a straight forward process. So be certain to save this layout piece if there is any chance you'll make the profile again.
Feel free to redraw your actual profile by connecting the flats again.
Come back later...